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As
spicy as it gets
From tandoori murghi and mullah do-
piaza to dum biryani and bunda pala, Pakistani cuisine is as
diverse as the countries that have influenced it.
Fried red cayenne pepper, cumin and mustard seeds, crushed
garlic cloves with freshly cut mint, onion slivers and coriander
leaves - these are the aromas of most Pakistani kitchens.
The land through which the mighty Indus flows is melting pot
that has seen the synthesis of a number of different races.
These include the Aryans, Dravidians, Greeks, Scythians, Huns,
Arabs, Mongols, Persians and the Afghans. Each has left an
indelible mark on the country's cuisine.
The ethnic signature of each race is discernible in 100
different ways in modern Pakistani culture - not least in the
country's varied cuisine. A large part of Pakistani cuisine has
Afghan-Turkic-Iranian roots, a legacy of centuries of Muslim
rule in South Asia.
Spicy splendor
These influences were tempered by the local culture that placed
great emphasis on the use of spices in its food. It is
interesting to note that this penchant for spices remains
largely centralized in the provinces of Punjab and Sindh. The
cuisine of the immigrant community that moved from India to
Pakistan after Partition is also famous for its heavy use of
spices.
The regions of Western Pakistan that include Baluchistan and the
North West Frontier Province have retained their cuisine, which
is similar to the neighboring countries with which these areas
share borders.
So, in a wider sense, Pakistani cuisine is a blend of its
western (Afghan-Iranian) and eastern (Indian) neighbors'
cuisines. Of course, flavors have evolved with time and acquired
their own unique characteristics. The content of spices can
range from very spicy/hot to mild, although spicy/hot is more
popular.
The advent of Islam in the region during the eighth century led
to the fusion of the non-vegetarian fare of the Middle East and
the rich gravies that were indigenous to India. The tradition of
ending a meal with a dessert, for instance, has its origins in
Arabia.
Meat is still a major part of the Pakistani diet; lamb, beef,
chicken and seafood are the basics. However, Pakistani cuisine
also has plenty of delicious vegetarian recipes because of the
abundance of spices and herbs.
Wheat is a staple and is used to make bread ( roti or chappati),
which is an integral part of all meals. Rice is also very
popular. Pakistan is an agrarian society in transition and most
of its needs are supplied from its own land. The best quality
rice in the world, known as Basmati, is found in the land
irrigated by the Indus.
The Mughul influence
With the establishment of the opulent Mughul Empire (1526) came
major changes in the local cuisine. One of the widely known
survivors of court cookery is tandoori murghi (chicken), which
takes its name from a special unglazed clay oven or tandoor that
is heated with charcoal. The chicken pieces are first marinated
for hours in aromatic spices and yogurt, then threaded onto
skewers and roasted in the tandoor. It is the aroma of the clay
and charcoal as well as the spices that makes this chicken dish
so unique and tasty. murgh musallam (stuffed chicken in a creamy
sauce) is another classic royal dish. The spices are fried or
dry-roasted, ground into a paste made rich with cashew nuts,
almonds and raisins and stuffed into the chicken. This is gently
simmered in milk and finally thickened with natural yoghurt.
Opinions vary on the meaning of the term gosht do- piaza. Taken
literally it means two onions but the dish was named originally
after a minister of Emperor Akbar named Mullah Do- Piaza. In the
context of cooking techniques, this term is often interpreted to
mean using twice the weight of onions to meat.
Pakistani cooking is geared for flexibility. It is not
necessary to stick rigidly to a recipe. Chicken can be
cooked in a variety of ways using any combination of herbs and
spices. It can be cooked in a sauce or absolutely dry. It can be
mild and buttery, gently piquant or fiercely hot - recipes can
change to taste individual tastes.
One popular way of cooking meat is by the dum method in which
the lid of the cooking pan is sealed with a paste of dough. Live
charcoal is then put on the lid and the sealed pan placed over a
flame. The heat then reaches the pan from above and below and
recreates the effect of an oven with steam trapped inside and
the result is tender cooked meat.
Pakistani cuisine has always had a regional
character, with each of the four provinces offering special
dishes. In the Punjab, Mughlai cuisine is a specialty. In
Baluchistan cooks use the sajji method of barbecuing whole lambs
and sticking bread in a deep pit.
Biryani originated in Persia. Birian means 'fried
before cooking' in Persian but has now become a loosely held
term for any rice dish across the country. The authentic method
of cooking is by layering rice and chicken.
Bunda pala (fish) is a well-known delicacy of
Sindh where the fish is cleaned and stuffed with a paste of
spices and herbs. It is then wrapped in cloth and is buried
three feet deep in hot sand under the sun where it bakes for
four to five hours. Thandal made from milk and paste of fresh
almonds is a popular Sindhi drink.
Cooking in the Northwest Frontier Province is a great deal
plainer and involves heavy use of lamb as the climate is extreme
with harsh winters. The famous Chapli Kebabs from this
region are spiced with anardana and roasted dhaniya. This area
is dubbed 'the land where the mountains meet' - both the ancient
Silk and Spice routes run through it. The menu here features
kebabs from the Khyber Pass and other dishes that emphasise the
essential technique of karhai, more popularly know as ' balti'
cooking.
The karhai, a cooking vessel which evolved from
the wok, lends itself to one dish meals. It incorporates
ingredients at hand, quickly stir-fried with aromatic spices, to
produce an all-in-one meal served straight from the stove to the
table.
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